AddHeat install and replace oil tanks for every size of property in Stockport, Macclesfield, Wilmslow & Cheshire.
Oil tank installation and replacement are two of our specialities, ensuring your home is kept warm with plenty of hot water. Our expert and friendly team will be able to professionally install your first oil tank or replace an existing one.
Our OFTEC accredited oil heating engineers will work hard on your behalf to ensure that we find the oil tank best suited to you and your home.
What is involved in the replacement of my old oil tank?
The work involved in the replacement of the oil tank at your property can be broken down into the following three categories:
- The cost of the replacement tank.
Below is a more detailed list of the activities/materials involved:
- Installation of the tank.
- Monitor gauge for the oil.
- Oil outlet.
- Base work for the tank.
- A fire screen (this will be dependent upon where the tank is to be located).
- Tiger loop (For tanks with a top outlet).
- A new line for the oil and a trench.
Note: The location the tank is to be placed will be a major point in the complexity of the job and impact on the cost.
The materials involved for an Oil Tank installation
The amount of materials involved are largely impacted if you need a concrete base to be constructed for the tank. It is important to be aware that due to OTECs specific rules regarding the base a tank can rest on it is reasonably likely you will require a new base to be made.
An additional large aspect when it comes to the materials involved in an oil tank installation is the cost of a fire screen. The purpose of this so that you have a barrier between the installed tank and objects that are not fire rated. This can be required as the oil tank is not permitted within specified distances to objects that are non-fire rated. As you will appreciate a fire screen will add to the cost so if you have the space you may want to consider a location that is isolated for your tank.
The procedure for replacing an oil tank
The usual approach for the replacement of an oil tank is as follows:
- Perform an assessment visit of the installation of the current tank.
- This includes:
- Access to the garden.
- A risk assessment from an environmental perspective for the storage of oil.
- Detail a solution that is in compliance with:
- The regulations for buildings.
- Storage of oil.
- The rules detailed by OFTEC.
- After agreement of the solution with the client the removal and replacement. activities can begin. These activities in summary are:
- Remove any oil from the existing tank.
- Disconnect the old tank.
- Remove the old tank from your property.
- Complete a pressure test for the old connection pipe to the property (only if it is to be re-used).
- Build a base that is suitable and to code to take the replacement tank.
- Complete an installation of the new oil tank.
- Connection of the feed pipe for the oil to the new tank.
- Preform a bleeding of the oil pipes.
- Prime the appliances and perform a test.
- This includes:
The Regulations for Oil Storage Installations
Your oil storage tank needs to be ‘Bunded’’ according to the ‘Oil Fired Technical Association’ (OFTEC) when the tank in question:
- Is located in:
- Isle of Man.
- Installed with the boarders of Wales as of 15th March 2016.
- Has an oil capacity is greater than 2500 Litres.
- Is located within a 10-metre proximity of controlled water.
- Is located in a position that a spill is capable of running into:
- An open drain.
- A manhole cover that is loose fitting.
- Is to be located within a range of 50 metres of:
- Is located on a hard surface that would facilitate a spill to reach controlled water.
- Is to be in a position that the vent pipe outlet will not be visible from the fill point of the tank.
- Is to supply Oil to a building that is not a single-family dwelling.
- Is located within a designated ‘Groundwater Source Protection Zone 1’ in England.
- Can be affected by a Potential Hazard on the site.
If the oil tank is to be located in an area that is at flood risk or is in a position that it is exposed to high winds, then a ‘Tank Restraint’ is needed. This restraint will stop the tank tipping and:
- Causing itself damage.
- Having the potential to leak oil.
Oil tank installation fire protection
As you will appreciate fire risk has to be a concern when considering the location and installation of an oil storage tank. The tank will need protection if it meets any of the points covered by OFTEC in the list below:
- 1.8 metres of a non-fire rated building or structure.
- Requires less than 30 minutes of fire protection.
- 760mm of a non-fire rated boundary.
- Required less than 30 minutes of fire protection.
- 1.8 metres of non-fire rated eaves (Means 1.8 metres from the part of a roof that meets or overhangs the wall of a building).
- Requires less than 30 minutes of fire protection.
- 1.8 metres of a construction opening in a building i.e. a Door or Window.
- 1.8 metres of a flue termination i.e. An exhaust duct, pipe or opening in a chimney from a burner appliance of fireplace.
- Or on a base which does not extend to a minimum of 300mm around all sides of the tank.
Give consideration to an underground tank
An underground tank installation has two big advantages:
- One: you don’t have to look at the tank
- Two: It doesn’t take up a large amount of above ground space
This means you can spend time in your garden with no unsightly visual interruption from the tank. If you would like to look into this option, please discuss it with you heating engineer.
Oil Storage; who are the regulators?
The trade association that covers the distribution of oil industry within UK and R.O.I. is the ‘Federation of Petroleum Suppliers.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about Oil Heating
Should I turn the boiler off in my house whilst the oil tank is being filled?
The simple answer is yes! It is highly recommended that you have your boiler turned off when your residences oil tank is being filled. In addition, it is recommended that it is not turned on for 30 minutes post filling of the oil tank. The reason for this approach is:
- You may have sediment in you tank and you don’t want to risk the sediment that is likely to get disturbed upon the tank being filled and getting pulled into the fuel line and then into your boiler.
Are there any considerations to the type shower I am able to run from off my combination boiler?
The good news is the following two types of shower are compatible with a combination type boiler as they generate hot water at a pressure level that is the same as the mains:
- Thermostatically controlled shower
- Mains pressure balanced
However, if you are in the position that you are putting in a combination type boiler to replace a regular boiler and cylinder you will need to have an existing shower checked for suitability to the combination boiler. This is necessary as the existing shower could be of a pump assisted type and so is specifically designed for a system that runs on low pressure.
It is most advisable to always get advice from a qualified heating engineer to ensure you will not have issues with the shower selection for your residence.
Mains pressure: Could this affect my combination boiler’s operation?
The water main is a big consideration for your combination type boiler. This is because your properties water main must be of a size sufficient that it can at the same time:
- Deliver water to your boiler
- Run taps in the residence
- Flush toilets
- Run your washing machine
- Run your dish washer
If you get into the position that the water main is not of a sufficient size you could find the boiler being starved of water when a couple of water outlets (e.g. taps) are used at the same time. There is however a way to reduce the likelihood of this occurring. This is achieved by making sure the boiler has a priority greater than other outlets within the residence. This can be achieved by ensuring it is the first to pull from the mains water supply into the property.
As you will no doubt appreciate the capability/performance of a device that is fed from the mains means the device is very much dependent upon the mains supply being capable of giving the necessary level of:
- Flow rate
- Dynamic pressure
The reason for this is that the rate of flow from the mains must be capable to cover both cold and hot water supply at the same time. However, the flow rate is reliant on the incoming mains:
It is imperative to understand that you must not mistake flow with pressure. In addition, the dynamic pressure level will be at a lower level than the static pressure from your supply.
To be complete on this aspect it is also possible that you may need a device to protect your system from too high a mains pressure. This device is called a ‘pressure reducing valve’. For your information the top level of incoming water pressure is usually at a 10 bar level.
Sometimes we find the hot water that comes from our combination boiler is cloudy?
From reading the above text you will be aware that the water the boiler uses to be heated to come out of your hot water taps is sourced directly from the mains supply. Therefore the first point at which the water makes contact with the air is the point it exits the tap.
When the heating of the water in the boiler takes place any calcium bi-carbonate that is dissolved in the water is changes into calcium carbonate. The presence of calcium carbonate in the water creates carbon dioxide and this shows in the water as many millions of tiny bubbles. Therefore what you observe as cloudy is in effect just a cosmetic effect as it will disappear as the water cools. This effect you will find is more prevalent in areas that have a hard water supply.
Is it best to treat the water in the central heating?
It is a good idea to make use of a water treatment in the central heating. This should take the form of an inhibitor. It is important to note that when this is used it is in alignment with the instructions from the manufacturers of the product. You should also be aware that it should be checked at a periodicity of 12 months or an even shorter time window if you have a loss of liquid from the system.
If the burner in the oil burner locks out what is the cause?
Two of the main causes are:
- Pipline leak
- Oil that is contaminated
Causes of contamination:
- Water in the oil tank (can be caused by the tank cover being displaced)
- The tank being damaged as a result of condensation (rust)
- Sludge in the tank. This can be caused by:
- Micro organisms
- The interface of the water and the oil
If you need your tank to be flushed/cleaned or your oil line to be flushed then please ask your engineer for guidance.
Is it OK to have artificially softened water put into the heating circuit with my combination boiler?
It is not a problem to have artificially softened water in your heating system in order to reduce scaling in your system and so protect efficiency. This treatment can be applied by making use of the water softener bypass to fill or make a top up (if your boiler has this facility)
If you are looking for the installation of a new tank or the replacement of an existing tank our friendly AddHeat expert engineers are ready to be of help. Please give us a call to see how we can help you move your project forward.
Why Choose AddHeat?
Welcome to AddHeat – we are a local, family run business, installing over 500 boilers a year. We offer expert advice and quality workmanship within the heating industry and with our office and small showroom locally you can be sure we are never far away.
All of employees are time served experienced gas safe and/or OFTEC engineers so you can feel assured that you are in safe hands. We pride ourselves on our high standards of work – taking care of every detail to ensure that you are 100% happy with the services carried out. We are proud to be Gold level Worcester Bosch Accredited installers.